One of the highlights of being an expeditioner on Macquarie Island is that we are able to leave station and experience our wild and windy island home by heading out field for a night or two and stay in one of the five huts. Six if you count the last of the shelter huts put in place for the hunters during the eradication project. This has traditionally been referred to as a “jolly” which is English naval slang for having a social get together and good times. The hardest part of the jolly, apart from the initial heart-breaking climb up Doctor’s track, is deciding which hut to stay in and how much cheese to bring.
Many friendships have been strengthened on these trips over a game of scrabble or cards, secrets shared, problems solved and the occasional piece of salacious gossip disclosed. Though there is a hut code - what’s said in the hut stays in the hut. Thank goodness the walls don’t talk! It's such a wonderful way to refresh and reboot away from the confines of the station.
Closest and an easy 12 km walk from station is Bauer Bay hut. Set about 300 meters back from the beach on a dramatic sweep of the west coast this hut is due to be rebuilt as it was built in a very swampy area, though considering its Macquarie Island its sometimes difficult to find somewhere not waterlogged.
Also close to station is Brothers Point Hut. This little cutie is a prefab hut and looks somewhat like an orange space ship has landed on the headland. Just a stroll down from the Sandy Bay penguin colony this is a popular weekend getaway and being on the east coast it's a nice coastal walk either way if the tides are favourable.
Half way down the island on the east coast and nearly everyone’s favourite is Green Gorge. Looking somewhat like a log cabin it has a fantastic location almost on the beach and there is always a serenade of noisy penguins and grunting elephant seals right on your doorstep and sometimes quite literally at the door.
Also on the east coast is Waterfall Bay. It's another prefab hut like Brothers Point and probably one of the least visited as it’s a little out of the way and has another heart stopping jump up; but if time allows it’s worth the detour on the way to, or from, Hurd Point.
And with the most challenging jump up and jump down is Hurd Point; always a dramatic experience first time. To think there is nothing between where you are standing on top of the southernmost point of the island and the Antarctic continent is always awe inspiring. Not to mention the million odd royal penguins just below on the coast.
There is one last hut shelter hut remaining on the wild west coast at Davis Point. This is usually only used by the rangers or lucky expeditioners accompanying the rangers on marine debris clean ups. These are very compact and basic but are still warm, cozy and have food and cooking equipment.
Once a year volunteers give the huts a birthday clean. Sleeping bags are changed out along with pillows and mattress covers and everything given a thorough wipe down and spruce ready for the following season. The station chef also has the responsibility of doing a thorough food stocktake at all the huts and usually has no problem in getting assistance as this involves visiting all the huts over a week or so. It's a tough job but someone’s got to do it.
All the huts have their charm and like children it’s hard to have favourites but what they all have in common is comfort. Bunks with big cozy sleeping bags, food and cooking facilities, heating, shelter from the wet and windy sub-Antarctic elements and chance to get to know our fellow expeditioners and share in our very special experience on this extraordinary little island.
