Macquarie Island's Ranger In Charge Amy Lewis looks back on her winter in the sub-Antarctic and the people who made it a life-changing experience.

Farewell Macquarie Island

In the ramp up to leaving home, destined for sub-Antarctic Macquarie Island, my mind was awash with a myriad of questions, “Have I got everything?”, “Will I be cold?”, “Should I bring that extra beanie/raincoat/pair of socks?”, “How will I go without the luxuries of home?”, “Should I pack my teddy bear?”, and of course “Will I survive without real coffee?”

Equally the anticipation of exciting new adventures began to grow, a constant stream of thoughts rushing through my brain; “I can’t wait to see the penguins, seals and albatross”, “I am desperate to see orcas”, “Will I glimpse an Aurora?”, “I can’t believe there’s a chef that cooks meals for me every day”, “Am I crazy to voluntarily live in the sub-Antarctic?”, “Will I see it all?”, “This is a once in a lifetime opportunity, think of all the amazing experiences I’ll have and the incredible photos I’ll bring home”.  “But wait, is my camera zoom good enough, can I even use an SLR camera and do I have enough photo storage capacity?”.

Now, seven months on, those questions have all been answered but really don’t seem to matter anymore.  No, I didn’t pack everything I needed but I made do, and now can’t remember what it was I forgot in the first place! Yes, being cold is part of the deal, but it’s worth it for the breathtaking scenery. I received two beautiful handmade beanies for my birthday, thank you Han and Jessie.  I definitely missed café coffee, but never went a day without.  I’m relieved I brought my teddy bear, he assimilated well to station life too! I really did see it all (or as much as I could through the winter season).  I immersed myself in station life, participating in firefighting and SAR exercises, slushy and hydro duties. I hiked all the tracks, spent countless nights in each of the huts and was swept away by the island’s vast beauty.  I was blown away by icy winds, pummelled with hail, drenched in rain and dusted with snow.  I even occasionally basked in the glorious sunshine under an unusually cloudless sky. I gaped in awe at the roaring ocean with its huge swells and marvelled at the diversity of life that survives in such harsh climactic conditions.

I ticked the box for every wildlife species on the list, the orcas making too many appearances to count.  Having witnessed their majesty so many times now, it seems strange that up until this trip, I had never seen one in the wild. I have now encountered vast penguin colonies, sat for hours watching their nutty little behaviours – like royal rock-stealing, gentoo grass-gathering and the innate curiosity of king penguin chicks.  The albatross with their faces so perfect they appear AI-generated, are a stunning sight to behold! Every stage of the elephant seal life cycle is incredible and confronting but reminds me of how wild and unforgiving nature can be.

I am going to miss it all.

What I never considered in preparing to leave on this Island adventure was the incredible people I would meet. The friendships I would form with people from different walks of life, from all over the country, each with unique life experiences and skillsets, who if it weren’t for the AAP, I would never have met.  The bonds I have formed with the 23 amazing expeditioners with whom I have spent the last seven months and the feeling of being a part of a close-knit community, are what I am going to miss most of all.

The daily “good mornings” and “good nights”, the casual conversations (debating whether tomato sauce belongs in the fridge or the cupboard), group hiking trips, deep and meaningful hut talks, special events and birthday celebrations and the casual Friday afternoon drink at the bar, are all rituals I’ve come to know and love and have offered me comfort when I’ve felt so far from home.  Being part of a team that rallies with support during difficult times, celebrates the good times in style, genuinely cares about each other and works together to achieve above and beyond expectations is something truly special.

The hardest part about leaving Macquarie Island after winter 2024 is knowing that island life will go on without me, but it is an experience I will never forget and has changed my life forever.  Macquarie Island has had a long history before us and will have a long future after us.  I keep thinking Macquarie Island has become a part of our lives, but really, it’s the reverse. For just a little while, we’re a part of the island’s life.

Leaving my Macca 77th family behind is going to be difficult and some tears may even be shed, but I know that our bonds are unbreakable having shared this life changing experience.  You will each hold a special place in my heart for many years to come. Enjoy the rest of your time here team.  I’ll be at the port ready to greet you as you disembark Nuyina in June 2025 (perhaps with a café coffee for each of you!).

To each and every one of you, following are just some of my cherished memories and the things I’ll miss most:

Bec – Our fearless leader. You fight the good fight Bec. You seamlessly balance leadership with being ‘one of the team’. You are fair, kind and understanding and have been a generous mentor. Your ability to turn a group of 24 strangers into colleagues, colleagues into friends and friends into family should be applauded, it is no small task. Your zany dress-ups and love of all things penguin will be cherished memories!

Mel – It’s so strange to think we didn’t know each other seven months ago. Your gorgeous glittery ‘Mega Mel’ eyes and selflessness in helping us all bring out our inner sparkle. Your guidance, assistance and advice have been invaluable. You are so genuine, a true friend, and I wish you all the best for the upcoming summer! Thank you for being the most dedicated wildlife ranger the Island could wish for! I am eternally grateful for your support both professionally and personally and your remarkable focus and unwavering commitment to the island’s wildlife are a blessing. Keep smashing out those epic Island trips ‘Mega Mel’! See you in June my friend.

Tom – Tommy/Tomberlina/Tommothy I will miss your lovely, quiet and genuine nature.  Your dart playing-prowess is second-to-none (except they who shall not be named) and thoughts of South Australia, Hilltop Hoods and vineyards will forever be synonymous with you Tommy.  Your focaccia deserves michelin stars.  You are such an exceptional human!

Pat B – You’re such a breath of fresh air. I’ll miss your daily greetings. You are hilarious, fun-loving and the glue that joins us all together as a family. Your mere presence raises the mood of the room, your steadfast positivity and your inclusiveness are incomparable. I am sure Annette will miss you most, but I will forever refer to good food as being “skitz” or “it slaps”.

Annette – We all know your food is totally ‘skitz’ and I’ve never had so many meals that ‘slap’ so hard, but you are such an integral part of the Macca 77th community, I’m not sure how they’ll cope without you.  Thank you for everything you’ve done for us, keeping us much more than well-fed and dealing with all our dietaries!

Hana – Hana Banana, my sunshine! This isn’t goodbye, it’s “see you later”. In you I found a twin-flame, a confidant and a red-headed pocket-rocket of a little sister. I love everything about you (especially your infectious laugh) and will miss you so much, but I know you will keep me up-to-date with island happenings and I’ll be there when you step off the Nuyina in June for the biggest reunion hug ever. Love you!

Matt – The big city boy with a new-found love of wildlife who's worked hard to become PWS’ most valuable ‘junior’ ranger. Your commitment to perfectionism, your flexibility and your ongoing provision of property advice to everyone who will listen, will not be forgotten.  I will miss the daily coffees with Macquarie Island milk art and discussions about football, tennis and the protein value of every food. Thank you for being unapologetically you, a skilful assistant, a true friend, and for everything in between.

Marcus – Your dry and disarming sense of humour and that piercing stare!  Your undying dedication to maintaining immaculate sleeping quarters for Hass House residents. Your commitment to devouring every mint slice on the island and utter disgust at the existence of white chocolate.

Rochelle – Your artistic flare, and your incredible generosity and willingness to share everything – knowledge, clothes, health tips and fitness regimes. You are the true orca whisperer and for that I will be eternally jealous!

Jamie – Your amazing method-acting and ability to transform into your character for our murder-mystery party will be emblazoned in my mind forever. Your ability to involve everyone in bar sports (thanks coach), your musical talent and your kind heart. 

Pat C – Our shared love of north Queensland, the sea and fossicking rockpools. Your fascination with wildlife biology and inquisitiveness about all things nature, adventure and outdoors!

Jessie – Your eternal optimism and bright enthusiasm. You are so compassionate and caring.  A heart of gold. I am sure our circles will overlap again in the not-so-distant future. Take care of yourself green-gurl!

Adam – You are a uniquely hilarious individual. Your ability to make fun of every person participating in, or watching, every sporting event (except Moto GP), ever. That is, your uncanny ability to intentionally piss off every person in the room all at the same time. You constantly made me laugh at the absurdity of your commentary on absolutely everything. Your cocktail prowess (and willingness to share) and your crazy house ideas!

Hamish – A member of the super-cool lefthanded gang.  I’ll miss your quiet pensiveness. You’re thoughtful, kind and generous. I admire your ability to stay true to yourself. Your incredible creativity and woodworking talent. The offer is still there, you’ll always have a job making picnic tables for Parks!

Duckie – Ahhhh Duckie! You know you’re one of my favourites! It has been an honour and a pleasure working with you. You are one of the most conscientious, dedicated and loyal people I know. I’ll miss your fast-pace, your humour and your kind-hearted nature. When they made you, they definitely broke the mould! You are the true gem of the AAP. See you back in Hobart-town friend.

Cris – Your untiring willingness to help everyone with everything. You are so obliging, generous and kind. Industrial insect art designer, a fellow lover of fruity brews, the keeper of station treats, thank you for entrusting me with the keys to the kingdom … lolly-knox!

Jay – “Yo Jay-Z!” You are the absolute best! Such an exceptionally unique character. You own who you are and that makes you a joy to be around. Thank you for the surprise Mexican field feast and offering me my first apprenticeship. You really are so thoughtful. Your ear-to-ear grin, your one-eared beanie style and your love of Dorito-dinners are just a few of the many things I’ll miss.

Andy – Our shared love of Mexican food and your ability to contort into any shape in the gym. Your inner and outer strength are both astounding. You opened my mind to the world of ‘sound’.

Shane – Your love of football and travel. Your good-hearted nature, your commitment to work and your daily walks to visit your fur seal ‘girlfriend’! You’re great fun to be around Shano and I am sure we will catch-up in post-Macca life. Enjoy your summer!

Joe – Your incredibly enlightened slushy playlists! I’ll miss your swagger and the balance you bring to our community in so many ways. Your karaoke performance is the stuff of legends! Never stop being you, because that’s pretty damn perfect.

Danny – Your jolly demeanour and disbelief at the aggressiveness of royal penguins!  Your relentless efforts to move things, move again, then move again, tidy, organise and re-organise! Your distinct fashion sense – tweed caps & braces.

Ed – Such a kind and caring soul. You are genuinely one of the nicest people I’ve met. I’ll miss our endless dog conversations, your unrelenting dad-humour, mischievous grin and your inability to ever stop working! Don’t let the heating get you down dear friend. See you in Hobart town … If you ever come back!

Pete – Ah Petey! You’re a salt-of-the-earth legend. Your ability to run and run and run, your new love of ‘Tool’ music (and associated dance-moves) and your stories of Christmas Island. I’ll see you again soon!

Thank you all for a Macca Winter Season I’ll never forget!

Amy Lewis - Ranger In Charge 

The end of winter

What a winter and spring it has been. Last weekend, as we celebrated our 'end of winter' dinner, it was a time to reflect on the completion of a busy and successful six months on Macquarie Island and to give ourselves a little pat on the back for some extraordinary work done and, most importantly, building a wonderful station community.

Next week the French Navy Ship, L'Astrolabe, on its way south to Durmont D'Urville, will make a stop in at Macquarie Island and do a small team change and drop off a little cargo. We are now over six months in and it's time to say a fond farewell to some of the team, and to open up our home to some new team mates.

This is HUGE. While it may be small in relation to other resupplies; it will be an opportunity to get some mail and maybe some Christmas presents, a little fresh food, and some all-important parts for things that have broken or we've been missing over the past few months. Most importantly we're breaking up our little team of 24. It's a hard thing to say goodbye to people you've spent time with every day for the past 209 days. We know them so well now that we can tell who is who from all the way across the isthmus. We know their voice on the radio, their favourite spot to sit at dinner, their drinks of choice, their music style for Slushie Radio and whether they like to watch a movie, a TV show or read a book, spend spare time building a jigsaw, in the spa or the gym, walking the coastline, amongst the wildlife, or being out in the field. We know who they're going home to and what they're planning – work or holidays – on return. Life here on station will go on, we will have nine new team members to integrate and make feel welcome and we have still so much to achieve before the next ship arrives in May. But a little piece of our hearts will leave on L'Astrolabe next week with part of our 77th ANARE family.  We wish Annette, Jamie and Amy a wonderful and safe voyage home and may their reunion with family and friends be all they hoped.

Fair Winds and Following Seas.

________

And, in recognition of making it into spring and some 'peak' wildlife time, a small photo collection to show some of the extraordinary fauna that we have been privilege to experience over the past months. The ramp up to the summer breeding season begins with the southern elephant seals, cows return and quickly begin pupping, they then head back to sea and the weaners are left to fend for themselves, moulting and learning to swim. Concurrently, gentoos are sitting tight on eggs and then begin to hatch. This is followed by adult king penguins returning to colonies to start breeding, while last year's chicks are fledging, and the royal penguins return on mass to begin their breeding. Albatross return in spring to start breeding and the wandering albatross chicks, that have been sitting tight on their nests over winter, slowly growing bigger, are soon big enough to fledge. Oh, and the orcas are patrolling looking for a tasty bite to eat. It's all happening here at Macca at the moment and it's spectacular! 

Bec Jeffcoat - Station Leader

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