Volunteering with the TASPAWS northern giant petrel (NGP), or Macronectes halli, nesting survey on the West Coast is one of the best ways to see the parts of Macquarie Island that are otherwise inaccessible to most expeditioners. I was fortunate enough to assist with the NGP nest survey on the mid-section of the rugged west coast.
In September, several teams travelled all over the island making an inventory of all the NGP, nesting sites. Now it was time to visit all the nests again to determine breeding success. Our team was led by Kate, one of the Albatross Researchers this summer. The large NGP chicks were starting to lose their down feathers, and showing early adult plumage. This part of the survey took three days to complete.
Sellick Bay
We set off from Green Gorge hut on the east coast, crossed the plateau and descended into Sellick Bay on the wild west coast. Here we carefully clambered around hundreds of nesting rockhopper penguins, not disturbing them, whilst looking for the NGP nest.
Hell Bay
Moving along from Sellick Bay, we came into into the aptly named Hell Bay, apparently named by the hunters during the cat eradication program. Here we saw a massive jumble of house and truck sized rocks, deep gulleys, roiling surge channels and countless crevasses that formed the preferred nesting ground for thousands of rockhopper penguins.
Soucek Bay
This bay was named after one of the first Chief Medical Officers in polar medicine, and held a lot more nests to be counted. It is a vast bay with a combination of rocky coast, tussocked rock stacks and featherbed. There was lots of walking around to find the scattered NGP nests.
Aurora Point
This is a huge area, magical, wild and very different from the bays we had previously worked in. Colobanthus, a group of bright green cushion plants, were everywhere covering rocks, old planks of wood and plastic marine debris, right up to the high tide mark. Additionally the cushion plants are now colonising the dead grass tussocks (the legacy of the rabbit infestation and destruction on Macca), adding to the eeriness of the place. There were many NGP nests here.
Aurora Cave
About halfway between Aurora Point and Bauer Bay hut, this was the last stretch of featherbed to survey. Trudging through the soft and wet featherbed is quite exhausting, always a guarantee of wet feet as one’s boots sink into the mire. Finally we arrived at Bauer Bay hut, a warm and dry refuge with a promise of a hot meal and dry socks. Close to 300 nests were surveyed during the trip.
Clive Strauss