With airplanes fast approaching, and the hectic logistical work that accompanies the commencement of the summer season, a handful of us made the most of the calm before the storm by heading out to Browning Peninsula for the weekend.
I feel like I should make some kind of mention of the preparations and trip out to the Peninsula so this story has some sort of chronological consistency. But it certainly wasn’t the most exciting part of the trip, so just imagine four guys in a Hägglunds that was obviously never designed for comfort, each with noise cancelling headphones to replace the constant engine drone with rocking tunes, as we drove across a picturesque landscape of white and blue.
Thanks to our early departure we made it to Browning’s hut in the a.m. with plenty of the day left to explore. A quick unpack of provisions and an enjoyable lunch of reheated curried sausages was had before departing together to the first destination on our ‘sights of Brownings’ list.
We climbed Repeater Hill, half named for the radio repeater that sits at the site, half because it’s not quite a mountain but definitely bigger than a knoll. The manner in which it towers above the surrounding area allows for an amazing view of the Vanderford Glacier to the south, an array of islands to the north and west, and the snow laden plateau to the east.
After the magnificence was adequately appreciated the party parted ways with Dan and Steve hiking the ridge line to the previous repeater site, while Scott and Joe returned to the Hägglunds to drive it around and pick us up at the other end.
Once we were all reunited again we drove out to the edge of the peninsula to hike across to Peterson’s Island. On the way Joe spotted an unusually coloured lump on the sea ice, so we walked out for a closer inspection and found dinosaur fossils! (Or possibly a seal carcass, whatever.) It had obviously been there for some time, being preserved by the cold temperatures. We paused for a while to reflect on the shortness of life and the flavour sensations of naturally cured seal jerky. (Kidding!)
Peterson Island, like all the Antarctic islands in winter, is only an island by name. The only telltale sign that you've walked from terrestrial ice to sea ice and on to an island is the old dingy tied to a nearby rock in case of some far fetched emergency. We hiked over rocky mountain ranges, and through ice locked bays to reach the site of the old Peterson melon hut. Once a great hut for overnight stays, strong winds have reduced it to naught more than a couple of broken planks. We were graced with a sunbaking leopard seal who seemed to be more interested in the half a dozen early arriving Adelie penguins than our presence, but was kind enough to smile for the cameras.
Finally we scouted the northwest coast looking for an American memorial cache whose presence had been passed down from one generation of expeditioners to the next through hushed whispers. Also, it’s marked on the maps. The cache was found soon enough, containing a 48 star American flag amongst other oddments. The logbook was signed with our names and a TFTC, and we meandered our way back to the Hägglunds in the waning afternoon sun.
Back at the hut Scott whipped up his famous field-hut nachos while we set out a substantial cheese platter with accompanying drinks. It soon became obvious that this was no evening snack but had turned into a full blown cheese dinner. We took the festivities outside just in time to watch the evening sun light up the glacier and surrounding sea ice as it set in the distance.
The following day Steve treated us to some bacon sandwiches for breakfast before we packed up and made the trip back to station, making a quick stop to get some final views of the glacier.