Reflections from afar - 28 July 2025
This story started three months ago today when I woke up to find a message on my WhatsApp: “So how does a short winter at Macca sound, leaving next week?” That got me out of bed and moving quicker than a Midwinter swim down south. After a quick, “Tell me more and what do you call a short winter?” reply to the AAD, I called my two daughters and got their hoped for and expected, “Go on Dad, we know you want it once more,” response. All of us who have been on any of those privileged adventures before know how important it is to have our families and loved ones total support behind us.
And after racing through all required (and then some more) medical tests in Brisbane, on the Gold Coast and in Hobart, in eight days I found myself on the heli deck of the Nuyina with a bunch of other excited people waving goodbye to Hobart and the so called “normal world”. (That could be a separate discussion in itself on many levels…)
We arrived at Macca on May 15th, being the usual windy and brisk weather it’s known for. It can be rather uninviting, almost inhospitable, and lets you know right from the start who’s in charge. One of my first thoughts after stepping off the helicopter was something like, “Who the hell thought it to be a good idea to start something off here over a hundred years ago?” Looking south down the isthmus, that infamous Doctors Track up that steep hill to the plateau looked so much bigger and somewhat intimidating at first glance. It would be a while anyway before any of us would face that challenge (except the FTOs and rangers) as the resupply at Macca takes around 3 weeks (which takes people by surprise at times because they think it is a smaller station but the weather likes to make it very challenging at times).
And then just two weeks in I got the frustrating news that head office had made the decision to swap me out sooner then expected due to some medical concerns. So, on the evening of the official station handover our Station Leader Karen and I broke the news to our group. I can only say that their response and show of support was quiet overwhelming. Everyone was hell bent on seeing me get out in the field and get the real Macca experience in my remaining time and, a couple of days after the ship left, that became reality with a three-day hike to Bauer Bay Hut and the surrounding coastline. I shared this unforgettable experience with our Senior Field Training Officer Dave, Dr Dee and chippy Aidan. Hip high Tussock Grass, knee deep mudholes, crossing the wide-open plateau and tracking along parts of the rugged West coast cliffs and a part of the feather beds gave me a really good taste of this mix of Jurassic Park and Avatar-like paradise.
The dinner on my last Saturday was called “the almost Midwinter Dinner “ as I would be departed by then. But the Macca gang made it all about me and I got showered with presents, affection, accolades and even a song performed by the 3 Macca Sapphires (Dee, Bree and Olivia) with the lyrics rewritten to the tunes of Rings of Fire. A very touching and overwhelming evening with a wonderful bunch of people that will stay with me for a very long time.
The Nuyina was back the next day with my replacement Sam and the whole crew lined up the day after to see me off as I climbed on the LARC to leave the Macca shores for good. Maybe it was my imagination but I thought even some of the “Elis” (slang for elephant seals) on the beach watched my departure with their big sad eyes and some Gentoos gave me a farewell wave as the LARC pushed into the surf.
As bittersweet and short as it was, I can say from my heart that this was one of the most memorable times and adventures of my life and an unforgettable finale to my Antarctic experiences from the last six years. Thanks for the memories Macca family of the 78th ANARE and I finish with one of my favourite movie lines from “Black Hawk Down” when Eric Bana replies to one of his fellow soldiers after being asked why he keeps coming back, “It’s not about the Government that sends you there, it’s about the people beside you.”
Hermann Schafellner, Chef 78th ANARE