Wrapping Up
Well folks, that’s a wrap (or as close to one as we can get in Antarctica, where nothing is 100% sure until it’s actually happened!).
If all goes to plan, the Nuyina should be here in about a week, one day shy of 400 days since we last saw it leaving the shores of Mawson. By the time we disembark at Hobart, it will have been 474 days since we boarded on 10 December 2024, fresh faced and clean-shaven for most of us. That is a big chunk of time. A serious commitment for anyone, but especially for those with families and young’uns.
In between? Well, all I can say is that it was quite an adventure!
There were some moments that test your mettle and help you grow personally.
But thankfully, there were mostly awesome, unique experiences with a random bunch of people that you end up knowing ridiculously well over such an extended period of living in close proximity. And yes, you get to know the best and the rest, but it goes both ways. The whole team gets acquainted with your own traits, quirks and annoying habits very well, and it’s an opportunity for self-reflection and improvement. Or at least an exercise in letting go and embracing a Zen-like philosophy.
How do you sum up something as mind-blowingly exceptional as a winter season at Mawson Station? You can only scrape the surface if you try, but here goes…
The wind. The relentless, sometimes furious, often chilling, wind that make you walk with a sideways gait, or forces you to sprint against it to make any progress. Recommended activity: watching from the mess and commenting on people struggling up from the green store. Priceless.
The ice. When it forms, its thickness and quality. It opens up sea ice travel and access to the unique Auster emperor penguin rookery where you can witness these peaceful creatures going about the business of thriving and reproducing in an environment that we struggle to survive in. Also, when it starts thawing and the dangers it presents both on the sea and on the plateau, with Haggs learning to float both on sea ice and on glacial lakes. Another favourite past time for Mawsonites; giving some drivers-turned-captains some cheek.
The wildlife. There is not much that’s alive down here. No buzzing insects, normally ever present pretty much everywhere back on the mainland. No reptiles, so no need to check under rocks when you pick up rubbish. A few flying birds, but they are gone for the winter period. When the snow petrels come back though, they seem p..ed off for whatever reason and are after blood. The shave always had a bad attitude but they don’t seem to have as much of a 'small bird syndrome'.
Then, there are the non-flying birds. The awkward-on-land-oh-so-elegant-in-the-water penguins. The emperors are big, and I mean seriously big, and curious, and a rowdy bunch in between themselves. A lot of shoving and pushing, and flippers flapping. They display some pretty cool gliding on snow instead of the hilarious, and slow, waddling. The Adélies are cheeky, cute-as-a-button and a bit more scaredy-cat. Their hopping to get up or down from a height always brings a smile to my face.
And finally, there are the seals. Although there are a few crabeater seals kicking about, the large majority of what we saw here were Weddell seals. Again, awkward-as on land (think, morbidly obese sea cucumber trying to crawl/belly-flop), but probably kicking goals under water. One doesn’t get that fat without being a mean fishing machine. Seeing the transfer of said fat from mum to pup, straight after they’re born in this hostile environment, is a true privilege, worthy of any David Attenborough doco ever filmed. Again, hard not to smile when you see those little helpless blobs of blubber nuzzling against their massive mothers.
The long dark, the long days. Daylight and night time all become relative down down under. Sticking to a routine will help your body ignore the fact that your internal clock is all over the shop, and no amount of Vitamin D or Melatonin will really fix your circadian rhythm crisis.
What we get paid for. The job is sometimes mind-numbingly routine and mundane, but it keeps the station functioning and the AAP delivering important science and geopolitical presence on the continent. Thanks to the tradies team for doing the hard yards when there was not much left in the tank! And to everyone for pitching in when help was required.
What we do when we don’t do what we get paid for. The fun stuff! The hikes/climbs on the plateau, the ski or bike outings on the sea ice, the Hagg trips to the rookery, the islands, some random windscour, the overnighters in the huts at Hendo, Fang or Rum (aaaah, the snoring). Also, all the cool stuff on station: darts, billiards, ping pong, foosball (no takers, or maybe too scared to lose?), countless hours of watching series/movies in the cinema, TED Talks on Mondays, French class on Tuesdays, tool of the week on Fridays, brunch on Saturdays, boot camp with Kez on Sundays, band practice with Zochy, yoga with Scotty, all the mad themed parties (Star Wars, Medieval, Mid-Winters, Pink Pony Club, Disco Wrecking Ball, Christmas, Hottest 100, G&T at the Ops Building, etc.), a lot ending in hilarious karaoke with bad dancing, bad singing, 100% good times.
The little things. Quiet early mornings with the 'regulars', the sound of the coffee machine whirring away as you watch what Mawson has to offer that day. The changes from the day before, sometimes looking at, well, nothing, as it’s pitch black or we’re in the middle of a blizz. Walks to East Arm and getting to know each rock you can jump on. Walks to West Arm and where to cross the ice tongue safely. The 'nest', aka my room, which held all my worldly possessions for my stay, all in a neat, tiny package. My refuge from the hustle and bustle.
The Mawson crew. Funny how as we get closer to 'The End', I get weirdly emotional when I think about my fellow expeditioners. We may see each other again, we may not. But this shared time spent on the white continent will probably stay with me for a long while. Thanks again you Mad Mob, and see you in the NT!
Diane Chanut - BOM Observer, Mawson
