Musings of a station doctor
Arriving at Macquarie Island last December felt like I’d somehow landed an extras role in a French wild west film. L’Astrolabe bucked at the slightest provocation, and before I quite knew what was happening, I was literally lassoed - lifejacket first by a serious-looking Frenchman and flung through a small door off the ship. Any protests were swiftly drowned by a mouthful of spray. All that emerged was an undignified squawk.
Prior to the mayhem of our arrival, life aboard L’Astrolabe had been nothing short of brilliant. It was a privilege to meet members of the French team, including their wonderful doctor, Dr Tipjany, who made me feel so very welcome.
Landing ashore, I’m not sure I’ve ever received such a warm welcome to a workplace. It reminded me how the little things can make all the difference to a season. Happy faces carried us, and our bags, along the isthmus to the station. A warm cuppa. Welcome signs. A room with the bed already made. Magic bag fairies everywhere. Sooooo good! Thank you to all you wonderful winterers for making that extra effort to include us in your season.
As I write this I have been reflecting on the history of Macquarie Island and the multitude of landings recorded over the years. The first recorded sighting of the ‘Big Green Sponge’ by Europeans was in 1810 by Captain Frederick Hasselborough. Fascinatingly, he described seeing “a wreck of ancient design” on the beach. How mysterious that sounds. I can’t help but imagine the unwritten history of this place and the people who may have travelled here, their stories carried on the wind long before any were written down.
It’s hard to describe this extraordinary place. The station and its people are a vital, vibrant part of the experience - but it’s the island itself that truly steals the show. It feels so raw and restless, so alive. A collision of sky and rock, greenery, wildlife and ocean. And in this brief moment of my passing it feels like coming home xx
Soph, Station Doctor, March 2026
