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Here we are, our last night for this voyage on the good ship Aurora Australis. As this is written we are approaching the Tasmanian coastline, the smell of eucalyptus on the wind surely not far behind.
Tomorrow morning at 0800hrs, we expect to be arriving in Hobart. Today has been our final full day at sea. For many aboard it has been a day of packing and cleaning in preparation of arrival. A group of volunteers scrubbed the galley and mess within an inch of its life this morning. This afternoon saw the finalisation of reports and voyage administration coupled with our last 'fireside' chat, an occasional gathering had onboard to update expeditioners with new developments and in this case, thank all assembled for their contributions to the voyage and present 'King Neptune' certificates to those who crossed 60 with us.
For one expeditioner, it has been an opportunity to reflect on the sights and sounds of wildlife. Over to Jaimie with thanks for her writing:
'Antarctica, home of the blizzard, where surviving requires a dense plumage of feathers, a thick coat of fur, a fatty deposit of blubber, anti-freeze proteins or, in our case, multiple layers of woolly thermals. Our departure from the icy continent, just five days ago, and northward journey through the Southern Ocean has not been lonely, for we have been joined by those best adapted to thrive in such hostile conditions – Antarctic wildlife.
As we packed up the Casey icelines that had so diligently held off any interfering floes in Newcomb Bay, a cluster of Snow Petrels performed aerial acrobatics above us. Churring, clucking and screeching as they danced on updrafts, partook in snow baths and awaited the arrival of newly hatched chicks. While the barge, crane and telehandler moved the remaining cargo above the water, below the surface a solitary Marbled Rock Cod stirred under the wharf, revealing himself to onlookers between each load. Right up until the last container of RTA was placed on the barge, the Wharfies were supervised by an inquisitive Adelie Penguin, taking time out from parental duties to ensure all our provisions made it safely ashore. Although not all penguins would make it safely ashore. A Leopard Seal cruising the harbor made a quick meal of a slow swimming Adelie, and in doing so grabbed the attention of a couple of South Polar Skuas and a Wilson's Storm Petrel (hoping to share in the kill), and two IRB crew (watching on for the thrill).
As the Aurora Australis pulled anchor and navigated homeward across an ice-free polynya several Weddell and Crabeater Seals were sighted from the bridge, but unlike our southward crossing there were no Minke or Humpback Whales to be seen in the profitable foraging ground this time around. Upon re-entering the pack an announcement from the Captain roused all expeditioners from their cabins to witness a large pod of Orca cross the bow. As we continued to break our way through the ice Southern Giant Petrels swimming between floes, Southern Fulmars soaring southward, Cape Petrels diving for copepods and Antarctic Petrels riding the winds deflected off the ship were eagerly observed by our newest Naturalists.
With a wide-open ocean and an 8m swell ahead of us, many missed the Light-mantled Albatrosses and Antarctic Prions that accompanied us to the Polar Front, a region where cool productive Antarctic waters meet warmer sub-antarctic waters. Once in the sub-antarctic zone, White-headed and Soft-plumaged petrels were spied only by the most robust expeditioners daring to peek out their port holes.
As our journey comes to an end and we steam into Storm Bay, with Mount Wellington in sight, we are joined by Short-tailed Shearwaters, who, like us, are returning from Antarctic latitudes. And while they are laden with Antarctic Krill to feed young chicks waiting in warm burrows, we are full of memories of southern adventures to share with friends and family.'
Regards,
James, Anthea, Gemma (and Jaimie)
Map
A map showing Australia and Antarctica. The map shows the journey of one voyage that has occured in the season, with each route highlighted in a distinct colour.