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The Aurora Australis likely saw the last of the residual Antarctic pack ice today, after farewelling continental Antarctica yesterday evening. After departing Davis, several expeditioners remained up and about through the night, including periods on the upper decks - to take in the best of the vessel's namesake the Aurora Australis or 'Southern Lights'.
This morning the expeditioners participated in an emergency muster drill, with everyone dressing in their thermal protective layers and heading out onto the helideck, which is largely clear of cargo now after resupply. After confirming all expeditioners were accounted for, the Master, Mr Gerry O'Doherty, gave a brief address on the different scenarios and actions which might be taken by expeditioners and crew in the event of a real emergency. He then took a photograph of all 106 expeditioners gathered in our yellow and black Antarctic 'shell' gear, before everyone was stood down and returned to the warmth of the vessel's interior.
As the vessel continued its track North across Prydz bay, large icebergs were a constant feature, and by mid-afternoon the vessel was making steady progress through the last sea ice fields before reaching the open waters of the Southern Ocean. As the Northern edge of the ice drew closer, the frequency of seals encountered on nearby floes increased, as well as the intensity of the swell from the ocean. The sea ice has a dampening effect on waves and swell, with waters on the inside of the ice bands typically being far calmer than those at the outer edge. As the open ocean approached, the swell moved through the ice fields quite visibly, heaving large ice floes as the waves rolled beneath and around them, even animating some of the smaller icebergs.
The seals, mostly crab eaters but also the occasional fur seal, seemed nonplussed by the motion of the swell beneath their resting places, although they did become alert and moved rapidly, if awkwardly, across the floes as the vessel slid by, some turning to bark their displeasure at the Aurora at having interrupted their snoozing. Once clear of the ice pack, the effects of the swell were more noticeable, the ship rolling and pitching as the swell met us from the North West. The vessel's movements were an unwelcome sensation for many of us who'd spent the best part of the last three weeks in more sheltered coastal waters and sea ice fields. The swell at least did signal the proper commencement of our return journey North across some 2,500 nautical miles of open ocean back to Hobart.
Other wildlife appeared to greet the Aurora as we moved away from the ice, large pods of whales, their distinctive spouts usually seen first, then fins and tails as we drew closer. Some whales moved close enough for those watching on the beach to clearly make out the whales' heads, flukes and the bulk of their bodies – rare moments which present a dilemma for those on standby with photographic equipment; simply make the most of the unique encounter by observing with the naked eye or, rush to snap off a few shots with the camera - in the hope that at least one photo will capture in some small way just how impressive these large animals are?
Whatever the decision, it's unlikely anyone who'd been fortunate enough to sight these extraordinary summer visitors doesn't walk away with a smile on their face.
Cheers
Mark & Fred
Map
A map showing Australia and Antarctica. The map shows the journey of one voyage that has occured in the season, with each route highlighted in a distinct colour.