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Live the dream! Be an Antarctic station leader.

16th May 2013
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Graham Cook Mawson station leader

Hi, I am Graham Cook. I am the station leader at Mawson Station in Antarctica. I work with the Australian Antarctic Division in what I think is one of the best jobs in the world.

Why do I do it? Because there are so many reasons why I do it!

So many people talk about living the dream. Well with this job I get to do what other people are dreaming about. Every day here is so different. Some days I will be helping the chef in the kitchen, another day I will be working with the plumber outside in minus 20 degrees. I get to spend time with scientists working on programs that I would never be introduced to and learning a lot from that.

Where else in the world would you get to work with such a diverse group of people and such diverse programs? We have flying programs, science programs, building programs, there is just so much that happens down here, that keeps my mind going, and I learn so much from the people that I work with. It is such a pleasure to go to work every day.

In a week or two’s time we will get to watch ten thousand new visitors arrive in the form of emperor penguins as they march across the ice to set up camp and breed for the winter.

When was the last time you looked out your office window, saw a snow-clad mountain range in the distance, a glacier creeping towards the coast, an iceberg on your doorstep?

I just love working here. It’s an amazing place. Friends and family tell me I am so lucky to be here and they are right, I am. But I helped to make this luck. I put an application in for this job. And I managed to get it. You can do it too.

Narelle Campbell Casey Station leader

Hi, I am Narelle Campbell and I am the station leader here at Casey station and it is actually a privilege to be able to come down here and work for the Australian Antarctic Division, supporting the various science and work programs down here.

The best part, as I said, of being down here is being with the team, and the various personalities. They’re people that you don’t know, that you have just first met back in Kingston doing the training. We all come together as a team and learn to live together and share each others’ experiences down here.

Mike Gasson, Macquarie Island station leader

Hi, my name is Mark Gasson. I am the station leader at Macquarie Island in the subantarctic. I work for the Australian Antarctic Division. Why do I want to be a station leader? It’s the most amazing job. It’s incredible. You get to be down in this beautiful location - it’s phenomenal - working with the most incredible team of people. You’ve got all kinds of different people here and I like working with people, I get quite a lot of enjoyment. It has been pretty awesome so far, I am loving it. It is a crazy adventure, unlike anything I have ever done before. We are isolated, we are miles away from anywhere, who knows what’s going to happen next? The whole thing is pretty much a mystery and the craziest thing is we’re getting paid to do it. So, it’s pretty awesome, I’m loving it.

Dr Martin Riddle – Terrestrial and Nearshore Ecosystems Theme Leader

10th April 2013
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Dr Martin Riddle - Terrestrial and Nearshore Ecosystems Theme Leader

I am a marine biologist originally. My work has always been applied I did my PHD in Scotland to do with the effects of the North Sea Oil industry on the environment. I came to Australia as a post doc in 1985. I spent 7 years working on the Great Barrier Reef. I moved down to Sydney to work for the Sydney water board on the effects of ocean disposal of sewerage. Then came a little further south to establish the human impacts research program at the Australian Antarctic Division in 1994.

The Terrestrial and Nearshore Ecosystems program undertake research to inform environmental protection and management for the Antarctic Territory and to support Australia’s policy positions in the international Antarctic Treaty system.

So we’ve got two major themes, there is environmental risk assessment, which is in essence does it matter, are the impacts or the activities of the people in the Antarctic causing serious effects on the ecosystems and on the biodiversity of Antarctica. The other part of course is, how do we fix it?

We’ve got a major research effort looking at cleaning up Antarctic contaminated sites. So 50 years ago it was standard practice to leave all the waste from a station in a landfill site adjacent to the station. But times have changed in the 1980’s and the 1990’s the international community negotiated the environmental protocol to the Antarctic Treaty. It was agreed that we would clean up those sites. We would also change our practices and return to the country of origin all the waste currently being generated.

The other is an ongoing problem and this is oil spills. Our programs are entirely dependent on fossil fuels. So we’ve been developing the technologies for cleaning up fuel spill sites on land and what we are doing is using the native micro-organisms, the bacteria in the soils, so that they feed on the oils, they break it down and they turn it into harmless substances.

Look I love the Antarctic environment, I love being there, it’s a wonderful place both from the natural aspects of it, it’s also wonderful just to be part of the community down there. The impacts that we have are a blot on the environment there, there’s no question about that, but they are localised to our stations. Personally I feel very optimistic about it because I know we can solve these problems, they are not insurmountable. It’s a challenging area to work in but it’s a very rewarding area also.

Dr Tas van Ommen – Climate Processes and Change Theme Leader

9th April 2013
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Dr Tas van Ommen – Climate Processes and Change Theme Leader

I am a physicist by training. I started my research career as an astronomer and worked overseas for a while, came back to Australia and fell sideways into a position here at the Antarctic Division doing the physics of glaciers, so I have become a glaciologist in my career.

So the Climate Processes and Change theme covers four areas. The first of those is the ice sheet itself, the second area is the ice that floats on the ocean and oceanography all wrapped up into super sub-theme. The third area we look at is the atmosphere above Antarctica and the fourth strand to our research is looking at past climate mainly from looking at ice cores that go back in time.

Looking back in the past is really the only way you can get enough information to test your understanding of the way the climate system works. And we’ve used the really detailed ice cores that we get from Law Dome, which is near Casey station, and they’ve allowed us to look in great detail at climate change and understand it in a way that you can’t do from most ice-cores just because of this high detail.

For example we have looked at changes in snow fall in the area over the last several centuries. We’ve found quite a clear link between rainfall in Western Australia or the drought that has been there and snowfall in East Antarctica. We’ve been able to use the very long records from the ice cores to say that what we are seeing now is unusual and very likely connected to climate change itself.

One of the projects I have been involved in actually was looking with a plane that has radar under the wings, shining the radar through the ice sheet to actually get a map of the bedrock underneath. And that was fascinating because we were flying along looking at the computer traces coming back from the radar and seeing for the first time the way the bedrock had deep valleys and high mountains underneath and for the first time being able to map out large areas of Antarctica.

There are still really important questions to answer about where Antarctica and the climate system is headed. We need to understand better for example how the ice sheets are going to respond in a warming climate because any loss of the ice in the Antarctica translates to sea level rise.

One of the highlights of this career is being able to actually go into the field and do some research. Drilling for an ice core where you might be hundreds of kilometers away from the nearest other party of human beings in extreme environments, experiencing the almost sensory overload of the wind, the cold, and the stunning visual environment that you are in, it’s really invigorating.

Antarctic blue whale voyage

27th March 2013
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DR VIRGINIA ANDREWS-GOFF, WHALE TAGGER

What an incredible privilege to get up close to these animals, you can't imagine how large they are. Words just cannot describe it, and everyone on that vessel when we first came up close to a blue whale let out a gasp.

DR JAY BARLOW, SCIENCE CO-ORDINATOR

Overall, the mission has been tremendously successful. It exceeded all of my expectations. I think the most exciting achievement is just our having the ability now to find these blue whales in the really thin soup that is blue whales in the Southern Ocean right now. There used to be 200,000 blue whales in these waters and now there's something like one percent of that, it might be two percent, but it's really hard in the vast areas here to find them. Now we have this acoustic technology that allows us to do it with unprecedented speed and accuracy.

DR BRIAN MILLER, LEAD ACOUSTICIAN

My daily job involves deploying sonobuoys and managing a team of passive acoustics experts who are listening for whale sounds and guiding the ship to the whales, working with the ship's crew and additional observers to make sure that we have every chance possible to see the whales. 

[Speaking into radio] Yes, we've detected blue whale calls.

So this is the first voyage of its kind. Our success rate has been very high. We've demonstrated these techniques, that listening for whales and heading towards them can enable us to sample and get to very rare Antarctic blue whales.

PAULA OLSEN, LEAD OBSERVER

Photo identification of blue whales involves taking photographs that allow us to recognise blue whales as individuals similar to taking a photograph of a human. With photo ID data, you can estimate population abundance, you can delineate stock structure between different population stocks of blue whales, you can also track movements on fine and large scales such as migration routes. These photographs we're collecting on this voyage will be contributed to a larger, southern hemisphere-wide whale catalogue.

DAVE DONNELLY, COXSWAIN

I guess one of the key things with this is to make sure that you're working within the parameters of your permitting, and also that you have a really good understanding of behaviour and being able to read whether or not you're having a negative impact on the animals. The Antarctic voyage has thrown out a lot of challenges to someone like myself, being my first time down to this region. Not only the climate and the conditions that you're faced with, but also these animals which I've never worked with before. They're extremely fast, they're quite large as everyone would know, and for what it's worth I prefer to work with them close to the ice edge where they seem to be more relaxed.

DR VIRGINIA ANDREWS-GOFF, WHALE TAGGER

We have a very experienced coxswain who drives around the whales and has learnt whale behaviour for the last ten or so years so he generally predicts what the whales are doing and when he sees a moment to get close to the whales he will pick that moment to bring the boat in fairly quickly. Often the water is very rough so I'm bouncing about in the bowsprit trying to focus on a whale and where I need to deploy my tag. We'd like the tag to have the most opportunity to communicate with the ARGOS satellite system so the tag needs to be forward on the body and quite high on the body so it's out of the water as much as possible for the surfacings that the whale makes. 

Once I placed a tag on the blue whale I was actually in a state of disbelief and shock. I didn't react at all, it was in slow motion and I turned around and I looked at my colleagues. I needed their confirmation that I'd actually tagged an Antarctic blue whale. Once that had happened I was grinning from ear to ear.

Since we placed the tag in the whale it's managed to travel north incredibly quickly, and then travel west. So it's travelled over 1000 kilometres since we tagged it. We have very little knowledge of the movements of Antarctic blue whales and in particular we are interested in the linkages between breeding and feeding grounds. 

DR NATALIE SCHMITT, WHALE GENETICIST

Well it's amazing what we can do with these samples, we can learn so much about these animals, and in a fairly non-intrusive way. So from each skin sample we collect from a blue whale we then extract DNA from that sample and through that DNA we can obtain genetic signatures for each individual and then we can track that individual - has that individual been sampled previously on this voyage? So we can look at movement within a season, and we can also match those genetic signatures to individuals that have been sampled on previous voyages between seasons on a broad scale. 

DR BRIAN MILLER, LEAD ACOUSTICIAN

I couldn't imagine a better bunch of scientists or crew to work with. They're all dedicated and hard-working, getting up every morning at 5.00 am, putting on their heavy clothes, going out into the sometimes driving snow, looking for whales, it's not an easy task.

Spectrogram of the call of an Antarctic Blue Whale

27th March 2013
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Video transcript

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