July 2006
21 July 2006
It has been a quiet week at Mawson this week but Ivor has been working on the station yearbook and below is a transcript of a few days out of the original Mawson station logs from February 1954 regarding the experiences Bob Dovers' first group of incoming expeditioners had getting ashore.
Record of Dover's Landing at Mawson on 5 February 1954.
Mawson station holds the original station logs going back to the historic very first days in February 1954. These logbooks are the self carboning copies in the original book of the hand written entries by Bob Dover. I was amazed that they were able to unload the two weasel vehicles off the ship at the fast ice edge some 30 km out, and drive them in over the rotting sea ice to Horseshoe Harbour at that time of year.
The Kista Dan was stopped in Iceberg Alley with the Frammes Mountains visible in the distance. It must have been a very heavy sea ice winter.
er in 1953, with such a late breakout. In fact they had a number of adventures getting the weasels ashore, which is not too surprising given the state that the sea ice must have been in at that time of year.
 Verner Island |
When I was coming in to Horseshoe Harbour this year on the bridge of the Vasiliy Golovnin on the 2nd February, there was still a bit of ice around in Kista Strait and in the harbour of course, but it must have looked very different in February 1954. Dave M was standing beside me and pointed out the rough area on Verner Island where Dovers had to beach their two caravans for three days and camp there after one of his weasels broke through thin ice at an open lead, until he was able to finally get ashore in Horseshoe Harbour.
This aroused my interest in finding out the details of this trip, and a few months later in April, when the sea ice was thick enough, I walked to Verner Island with Geoff P to locate the spot. I was able to do this from a photograph I found of Lem Macey with the caravans on Verner Island in Tim Bowden's book "The Silence Calling". I was also stimulated to read about it in the log book, and here is a transcription of the relevant entries:
(As planned on the previous day, Dovers and Lem Macey were in weasel No 1 and Russel, Schwartz and Harvey in weasel No 3, towing caravans, intending to undertake what was primarily an ice reconnaissance trip towards the coast. Leckie and Seaver were the two RAAF Auster pilots and Morgan the RAAF engineer.)
5th February 1954.
Weather generally fine, light wind from SE, temp 27F.
Offloading at the ship commenced at 0600. Mr Law flew in Auster 201 with Leckie to land and make a personal reconnaissance of Horseshoe Bay at 0700 (approx).
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When the two weasels were unloaded I ran one back to the edge of open water and found the ice solid enough. The total width (distance?) of ice broken by the ship's passage was 2.7 miles statute by weasel speedometer.
Offloading continued until 1030. At this time Auster 201 was overdue. I instituted preliminary emergency measures as follows:
- Two weasels to leave immediately and attempt to reach Horseshoe Bay taking with them Doctor Somers and emergency gear.
- Auster 200 then being assembled at the ship's side was to fly direct to Horseshoe Bay as soon as airworthy. Left to discretion of Seaver to land or return to guide in weasels.
- A dog sledge to be prepared to travel with Schwartz, Doctor Gwynn and one other in the event of the weasels failing to make progress.
At 1040 Auster 201 was sighted and landed.
The weasel reconnaissance group left at 10945 with Auster 201 giving leading directions by buzzing weasels.
All proceeded well until 9.5 miles where a large open lead (4 yards wide was encountered). Unfortunately, just prior to this, we lost the aircraft co-operation whilst it was refuelling. As we were unable to bridge this lead we had to follow it until it narrowed. We chose to turn left as there was a large grounded berg about half a mile away and we hoped to be able to cross on the drift (i e blizztail) in it's lee.
(Then follows a sketch showing the crossing point near the berg, where the lead/tidecrack actually becomes much wider, but has a large piece of ice in the middle of it which was used as a "pontoon" for their bridges. There is also a second lead running to the iceberg to cross a little further on, which was narrow enough to bridge easily.)
The floe used as a pontoon took the passage of the first weasel but due to lack of experience, the driver of the second weasel dropped off the end of the bridge too hard and broke the floe. It was doubtful whether the floe would stand a second passage by the weasels.
By radio from the ship we were told that this lead went for miles everywhere the same and that we should try to cross it where we were. The weasels were at point A (on the sketch, proceeding from the first lead with the ice pontoon bridge towards the second lead) when Auster 201 landed piloted by Leckie. He took me to Horseshoe Bay at low altitude thence along the large lead to a crossing he had found. Then he landed me at the weasels.
We then turned from point A following the lead back the way we came to Leckie's crossing. At this point we left a bridge in place ready for a rapid return to the ship. The ice was here 12 inches hard and blue, a small water layer, then 18 inches of soft waterlogged ice. At 16.5 miles a second lead was encountered which required bridging. However as I considered it possible to jump this lead at high speed in emergency I took the bridge on with us.
It was now growing late. We had been considerably delayed above my estimates. This had sprung mainly from three causes:
- Loss of aircraft guidance at the first lead and subsequent detour to leg.
- The towing brackets on the barge caravans which were (impressed?) at Tottenham by Russell were continually breaking necessitating delays to repair.
- Wireless liaisons were taking more than ¼ hour each time.
It seemed that the ice was still good and a yard thick so we pressed on as fast as possible.
At about 17 miles we encountered a further lead which we passed without bridging.
At 18 miles we encountered blue ice that cracked under the weasels continually. This ice was obviously a barrier to weasel ferrying of stores. The reconnaissance as such was finished at this point.
However Auster 200 was then at Horseshoe Bay and awaiting arrival of weasels. The ship was 18 miles away and land 5 so as a security measure we made for Horseshoe Bay at speed. I didn't think that there was much danger to weasels not towing cargo.
At 10 miles we were near one island so we stopped marking our route.
At 21 miles the light was bad and I turned into a bay separated from Horseshoe Bay by a string of islands and to the east of it. (Perhaps between PetersenIsland and LeeIsland?)
We were investigating a lead between islands prior to crossing when Auster 201 circled us and buzzed us in the direction of the landing strip near Horseshoe Bay then returned to ship. Presuming Seaver to be at Auster 200 at Horseshoe Bay, we altered course as directed and proceeded at top speed for maximum safety towards the landing strip.
 Rescuing Weasel #3 which had broken through the fast ice |
At the last lead joining the older ice in Horseshoe Bay from the younger ice, No 3 weasel (leading) (Dovers and Macey) broke through. Due to bad light and fatigue I made an error of judgement and endeavoured to pass this lead at speed without bridging. At the moment I considered this most justified as I wished to see my group on land before it became dark.
The surrounding ice was 9 inches thick of brittle blue ice and the lead was open. I used the normal technique in such a break through of continuing to drive forward and though the bow of the weasel and the tracks started to bite again the ice in front broke again and the weasel slipped back.
Recovery operation then commenced. We could not get sufficient traction on the glassy ice from the No 1 weasel and furthermore when towing, the ice under it began to crack. We then slid the long bridging timbers under the tracks and attached a cross bearer to the ends. Then with No 1 towing we attempted to back No 3 out of the water. The starboard side timber slipped and the attempt was discontinued. One long timber and one short were then wedged under the weasel.
The next tow was done by No 1 on a long line with timbers under its tracks spiked to the ice. No 3 came back nicely and its tracks commenced to bite and the stern to rise out. It moved back about its length breaking ice between its tracks. At this stage the towing rope broke.
As it was then 3 am and dark we abandoned the effort for the night. No-one had eaten since 8 am.
Wireless liaison told us Seaver had returned with Leckie.
We then attempted to find a crossing of the tide crack on a nearby island. This not found we were forced to camp the rest of the night on thin ice. However we were only 250 yards from land.
I cannot express too highly my appreciation of the excellent services rendered by the Auster pilots. Without their aid this reconnaissance would have been most difficult.
All members of the group worked well and willingly. The attached file of messages passed and received should complete the picture.
The last signal of the night asked for a two ton chain block to be flown in for the salvage of No 3 weasel.
Distance run from ship to last lead 22 miles not including the detour to the crossing of the lead near the berg.
6th February
Wind 40 knots SSE rising 60. Temp 21F. Bar 28.87.
On rising we found No 3 weasel still afloat and dry inside. The water surrounding it was frozen and it seemed safe indefinitely.
The first task was to ensure the safety of men and the remaining weasel. After a careful reconnaissance I decided it was not advisable to attempt to cross the tide crack on the only accessible island with the weasel. In emergency the island could be gained by charging the tide crack at speed but once there it would be impossible to get the weasel back onto the ice. So at the most accessible spot the two caravans were hauled nose against the shore and anchored by steel cable attached to a steel pin driven into the rock.
(See photo on P112 "The Silence Calling" showing Lem Macey with two caravans pulled up on Verner Is behind him.)
The weasel was then parked on the sea ice some 50 yards from the caravans. A further security measure was to place the rations, man-haul sledge and gear, and all valuable gear on safety on the island.
The proposed flight by Leckie was cancelled due to increasingly bad weather at the early morning radio sked.
It had been my intention to visit Auster 200 as soon as this was completed but the weather had deteriorated considerably and as I did not consider we could do anything effective to secure 200 I decided the risk to men moving on glaze ice in high wind was too much and discontinued operations to await a change in weather.
The only disconcerting factor was No 1 weasel which was still standing on very thin ice (9 inches). It was necessary to move this machine every few hours as the ice beneath it sank and cracks developed. To ensure this could be done, a rope was rigged from shore to weasel to help men reach the weasel.
7th February
Wind 50-60 SSE. Temp 29F. Pressure 28.93. 7/8 strato-cu.
All personnel slept in until late. Conditions were similar to yesterday and too difficult for salvage efforts.
The two barge caravans were arranged one as kitchen and dining. The other as sleeping quarters and storehouse. The important gear was stored on rock. As far as I can foresee, the group is now in safety and in emergency we can get No 1 weasel onto rock as well.
As the weather was improving, I made a trip on crampons and located Auster 200. As far as I can judge it has suffered no damage. Reported this information to ship.
I noticed a slight ocean swell moving against the island and also a marked water sky in the east. Confirming this the ship reported open water about 5 miles east of us.
Accordingly a watch is being kept over the night hours to check against any damage to No 1 weasel.
I checked No 3 weasel. It is completely frozen in and dry inside. Under present conditions it is in no danger of sinking.
The island (VernerIsland) on which we are is about 200 yds by 100 yds but has the advantage of being an Adelie Penguin rookery. However the rookery is small and in a bad state. All penguins are weak, dead chicks are everywhere and dying chicks are seen each day. When an adult arrives every chick rushes it clamouring for food. I am highly suspicious of the lack of life here and the reason for the dead animals found lying about. Checking with Schwartz, we both are of the opinion this is a worse place than (several illegible words at the very bottom of page).
8th February
Wind SSE 25 knots. 8/8 alto stratus. Snowfall in evening. Barometer (no entry) Temp (no entry).
Plane arrived 0715 in morning piloted by Leckie bringing with it an extremely heavy load of cordage and tackle for salvage No 3 weasel. I decided to return to ship to consult with Mr Law. I flew out with Leckie. Russel and Harvey winched caravans onto the rocks.
Found ship wedged in light pressure ice and was obliged to delay my return when the captain asked me to crack up ice in rear of ship.
Meanwhile Leckie flew in Morgan to Auster 200 to check aircraft. He then flew in food to Penguin Island weasel camp making 5 trips in all.
Seaver was flown in to A200 and flew back A201, Leckie flying back A200 which had a damaged aileron. He then flew me back to weasel camp.
The weather then closed in with a snow flurry from the east. Macey and Schwartz helped Morgan at A200 and I escorted Morgan back to weasel camp to return with Leckie in final trip.
Macey and Schwartz then left for ice at an iceberg 2 miles distant but following instructions returned when the weather became threatening.
I and Schwartz then checked on No 3 weasel starting the motor and freeing tracks from ice. We then worked out the method of salvage. On our return picked up a load of ice from a drift for fresh water.
No 1 weasel was troublesome due to bad ice for standing.
9th February
Wind 5 knots SSE. 6/8 strato-cu. No snowfall. Bar (nil) Temp (nil).
Started early with Russell and Schwartz on the salvage of No 3 weasel. We chipped the weasel free of ice and warmed the motor. A deadman was sunk in the ice behind the weasel, and the weasel was winched and driven out using the two to chain block. I had thought we might have had more difficulty with this salvage due to thin ice (9 inches) but with the recovery of the bridging timbers we were able to get a footing for the weasel tracks.
(Then follows a sketch showing the weasel winched out through the chain block to the deadman in the ice, the timber is placed as "plank on edge" at right angles to the winch cable just in front of the weasel ie on the ice edge over which the weasel tracks are being pulled. See photo on P 117 "The Silence Calling" of weasel being winched and levered out backwards.)
Once the stern was out sufficiently timbers were slid across the track and by levering under the bow the weasel drove out in reverse. Returned to camp at 1110 hours.
 Watching the Weasel approach from Verner Island Photo: P. Law |
Seaver flew in 1.8 gallons of petrol and Doctor Somers whilst we were at Penguin Island. And a third flight by A201 (Pilot?) left a dump of stores at the marked landing strip.
I was pleased with the way the men of the weasel group are shaping particularly Harvey and Schwartz.
Today under ideal conditions, the camp site looks good. Ample building sites are available and permanent drifts provide stocks of ice for water.
There were three seals at the tide crack on the point this afternoon.
Wilson petrels are nested in the rocks above the campsite. I suspect there are snow petrels also in the immediate vicinity.
We got the typical evening wind from the plateau tonight.
The new model tracks on No 3 weasel are vastly superior to the old. The only thing I am afraid of is that there will be excess wear on the driving sprockets.
After 3 days in the water No 3 weasel had taken only about ½ gallon of water. I inspected it for damage tonight and found none.
The attached messages between ship and shore amplify this journal".
(Overnight on 11-12 February the two Auster aircraft were parked on a hatch on the Kista Dan and blown on top of each other by strong winds and wrecked. On RTA the two wrecks were made into one aircraft.)
